Tag Archives: China

Imaginary Vacation-Yunan Province, China

Let’s start out December the right way, with a trip to China. Our Imaginary Vacation founder Jessen is back and this time she’ s graciously laid out an itinerary for those of you who are interested in going. Take it away Jess!

In October 2009, I spent 8 days in Yunnan Province in southwestern China.  Yunnan was famous for being the equivalent of Russia’s Siberia; you are on the political outs, then here is where you are exiled.  That’s where the comparison ends, for although Yunnan is pretty rural, I can’t imagine a more beautiful place to be stuck. The weather is awesomely mild in the lower elevations year-round. Besides that there is a really good black tea grown here named Pu’er. And did I mention this is the only place in China where coffee is grown? COFFEE. ‘Nuff said.  I could definitely see myself living here.

Day 1-Arrive in Kunming AKA the Spring City, the capital of the province.  Feel the laid back vibes.  Wander though Green Lake Park and order up some soup-filled dumplings to snack on. If you’ve been in China for a while and miss things like tacos, go ahead and slobber over “Culture” street, where the cities relatively large population of ex-pats have set up shop. I say relative because you will still get plenty of stares for looking foreign on pretty much any other street.

Dumplings. Yum.

Day 2-Day trip to The Stone Forest (Shílín) to see an impressive collection of really big rocks, worn by water into a variety of fantastical shapes.  Try to puzzle out which rock is “Mother holding child”, “Elephant occupies crags”, or “Two Birds Capture Food”.  It’s way bigger than you’d expect and you can hike around most of the day and still not see all the different rock formations.  Pathways take you around, over, under, and through an amazing variety of stone shapes. Near the center of the “forest” lies a still pool with no inlet or outlet (above ground) surrounded by sharp sword-like towers.  Even the noisiest of tourgroups hushed when they arrived at this special spot.

The Stone Forest

Day 3-From Kunming it’s a 12 hour bus ride up into the mountains to the town of Lijiang.  The center of town is built in the traditional ethnic Naxi style, with 800-year-old buildings indistinguishable from those built in the last few years. Get pleasantly lost in the narrow cobblestone alleys winding up Lion Hill and as you pass decorated wooden lintels catch glimpses of family courtyards hidden within.  Most shutters are intricately carved with a crane motif. Grab some supplies from the long market street, especially yak jerky (in a billion different flavors), fresh fruit, and delicious local yoghurt drinks, while browsing leather goods etched with Naxi pictographs, or watching a silversmith at work. Too many tourists? Just 20 minutes north of Lijiang is the ancient village of Shuhe, while smaller, has similar features without the thronging crowds.  For dinner, local fish caught fresh from the river is a good choice.

Naxi Style in Lijiang

Naxi Style in Lijiang

Family courtyards in Lijiang

Family courtyards in Lijiang

Crane motifs are popular.

Crane motifs are popular.

Day 4-If there are no tickets to Qiaotou, you can buy a bus ticket through to Zhongdian and then ask the bus driver to let you off on the side of the road near Qiaotou.  Walk into town and right through to the ticket gate for Tiger Leaping Gorge.  Abjure the low paved road for the more difficult but breathtaking high path. The high path is definitely not for the faint of heart, in some places it narrows with a thousand foot drop.  The first village is a good place to stop for lunch and you will need to fortify yourself for the steepest part of the path the “28 bends”  Locals may follow you with horses until gasping for breath you agree maybe it would be better to ride up.  From 28 Bends it’s an equally steep descent to the second village.  Most people would press on to the third village which is the halfway point of the hike, but if it randomly decides to rain and make the trail a slip-n-slide of mud, then stopping at the Tea Horse Guesthouse is a good plan B.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Jade Dragon Mountain

Jade Dragon Mountain

Day 5-Wake up early for gorgeous views of Jade Dragon Mountain across the gorge. Set out early and you will see the shepherds setting out with their flocks of mountain goats. Like waterfalls?  There are quite a few on this section of the trail including one you have to walk through.  Eventually the high trail descends to meet the road at Walnut Garden village, but clamber down a series of ladders and you can reach the riverside, look up to see the road passing high overhead.

Day 6-Head off to Zhongdian, recently renamed Shangri-la, for a taste of Tibetan culture, lifestyle and scenery.  Go even further: a gorgeous 3 hour drive winding past near vertical fields of barley and roadside stupas will take you to the serene town of Benzilan.

Zhong-dian aka Shangri-La

Zhong-dian aka Shangri-La

Day 7-Shangri-La lies in a broad valley surrounded by three sacred mountains.  The city is modern concrete, but just a few minutes away people do things much the same as they have for generations. Check out Songzanlin, the biggest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the province, looking pretty good for being over 300 years old.  Head back to Kunming in the afternoon. It’s a 15 hour ride.

Barley Drying

300 year old Tibetan monastery

Songzanlin Province

Day 8-Kick back in Kuming and grab a bit of local American history at the Hump Hostel, which has mini-museum dedicated to those who flew over the Himalayas (!) during WWII to get much needed supplies in the back-door of occupied China.  Wander aimlessly and you might find some interesting things around town like a internet bar disguised as a rocky wall devoted to Counter-Strike or the personification of the Chinese Zodiac in four foot high statues just hanging out in front of a electronics repair shop. The oldest and newest part of the city jostle quite close together. Don’t miss the Flower and Bird Market, although it’s less birds and more jewelery and art these days, it’s fun to browse through several floors and see everything from pressed butterflies to enormous hand-carved pieces of furniture.

Chinese Zodiac Statues

Old Meets New in Kuming

I hope someday I can so back to Yunnan, it was by far the most beautiful and varied place I have ever been.  I didn’t have a chance to visit the southern part full of tropical jungles or the west where there are some volcanoes and places with both rainforest and permanent snow.  Truly a wonder

Imaginary Vacations

In my life I’ve been very fortunate to get to travel a lot but right now is a season of my life that is dedicated to adventures of a different kind.  Lately for instance I’ve been discovering the joys of holding a little guy on my hip and singing Raffi songs while toothbrushing in the morning!  This is fun but travel is good too so I’ve decided to start taking some imaginary trips with my friends. C’mon let’s go have an adventure!

Our first trip is to visit my friend Jessen in Hunan Province, China.  Jess moved there last year and is a kick-ass teacher to some lucky-duck Middle School Students.  She’s been nice enough to kick off this new series.  Descriptions are from Jess. My commentary is in italics.

This is Jess. Awww she's so cute. Also... today is her birthday! Leave a comment wishing her a happy 31st if you are so inclined!

Waterfall in Zhangjiajie National Forest Park. So pretty! We're off to a good start!

This is a 9 story wooden building constructed completely without nails. It's called Jiuchongtian Hereditary Hall and is part of the Tujia Folk Customs Park, a replica of a typical traditional Tujia village (the Tujia people are a small minority group that live in the western mountains of Hunan). Wowza! Anthropology, architectural marvels and awesome all wrapped up together. Triple word score.

Yandi Square, Zhuzhou at sunset. The statue is the first of the "flame emperors" revered because he taught the original inhabitants of the area agriculture. Growing Food=Good for the peeps.

Honey-candy vendor near Yueyang Tower in Yueyang City. This guy drew intricate animals and shapes out of drizzled honey with only a marble slab and two small metal tools (a scraper and a poker). Now we're talking! Gives new meaning to the "candyman can!"

Hotpot - One of the best things about Hunan is the food. Hotpot is like a Chinese fondue, except you dip the meat and veg in an insanely delicious broth. I heart hotpot, I'm not surprised that Jess hearts it too.

Chicken carcasses out to dry with the laundry. A little local color never hurts.

This is the Autumn-Admiring Pavilion on Yuelu Mountain in Changsha City. It has a poem by Mao Zedong inscribed inside. Wasn't it nice of all the people out that day to wear coats that coordinate perfectly with the Autumn-admiring pavilion?

Hunan looks amazing Jess.  I’m so proud of you for just going for it and moving to China!  Thanks for inviting us to see a little bit of your daily life!

Baodza

I haven’t done a China post for awhile because I am lazy. But I hope you’ve all noticed that I’m trying to be a better blogger? An almost daily blogger! The kind of blogger with shiny hair who eats five cups of fruits and vegetables a day!

Did I get carried away there?

Incidentally, thank you all for the insomnia suggestions. I think I am going to try melatonin. Probably not gonna try vodka/sleeping pills. Isn’t that how Heath Ledger died? (God rest his soul). Last night I was actually able to sleep in my bed which is great. For some reason over the past few weeks I have found my mattress too irritating to the point where I can’t sleep on it. Why it irritates me is hard to explain. It’s just it’s essence… and yes I know that criticizing my mattresses essence is the just the birthplace of crazy… but back to China.

OH the memories

The best part about China, besides the beautiful scenery and great people is the CHEAP GOOD FOOD. There is are several meals that I think about with great nostalgia and the one pictured above makes the cut. We were in the small city of Jiayuguan and we ate at this tiny hole in the wall restaurant… and keep in mind that we were in China, so “hole in the wall” wasn’t quite as euphemistic as it is in the states. We at so many baodza (steamed buns filled with meat). They came so perfect and beautiful stacked in their little bamboo cases. And they were all the more sweeter because it was like $4 total for the four us to eat. Oh China how I miss you so!

Triple Bunk Trains

I don’t think it’s any big secret that I love public transportation. I LOVE IT! I love it like white people like sour cream. Sadly, Sacramento’s public transport sucks, it’s slow and inconvenient and did I mention it sucks?. This of course is in contrast to Portland, OR, the shiny city on a hill that I still dream about. When I think about Portland, ironically the clouds part and angels sing… but I digress, this post is supposed to be about China.

Must. Stay. Focused.

I will forever remember that China is the country that introduced me to the joy of trains with sleeper cars. This my friends is like magic. You pay $30 bucks get on a train, sleep all night in a comfortable bed. Wake up, eat some Jiffy in a squeeze tub and sesame crackers for breakfast and arrive at your location having saved money on both a flight and hotel night. It is SO WONDERFUL! Did I mention that I love public transportation like white people like sour cream?

PS. Debs sent me this awesome video explaining how to cheer in Chinese. Jia-yo!

Beijing Olympics

This Billboard was approximately 5 stories tall.

I have to confess that we Arnold and I have been watching A LOT of Olympics. It’s so addicting and has totally thrown off our schedule, we stay up till 2 am watching new sports everyday. In Atlanta I would come back from my conference to find Arnold still in bed at 11 am watching volley ball. And I blame all of this on China. The entire time we were in China was like a three-week commercial for the Olympics. In fact, the whole time we were in China there was a ban on non-Olympic related advertising so every single advertisement we saw was for the Olympics. I think we were pretty much already brainwashed into reacting to everything Olympic like Pavlovian dogs even before we saw the kick-ass opening ceremonies. All, joking aside though, it helped us to understand that the Olympics is very important to many people in China, many of whom have made a lot of sacrifices to get their city ready for these events. Personally I think that when we look back, the Beijing Olympics will be seen as the marker of when China officially re-emerged as a dominant world power. It feels pretty cool to have been there right before these sure-to-be-historic games.

Olympic sponsor advertising only!

Most people go to LA to see “celebrities” but Arnold and I jet off to the lovely town of Atlanta. So far we’re loving the friendly Southern hospitality and culture. On Wednesday we hung out at Centennial Olympic park and ran into an AWESOME free concert. If only, the free concerts in Sac were so jamming. I had to hold myself back from joining the people dancing on the lawn.

But back to celebrities…. Arnold and I are staying at the Omni hotel adjacent to the CNN center, so we’ve been hanging out with Anderson Cooper and Larry King… or, er, cut-out’s of them. Close enough, right?

But for me, the real excitement was what we did tonight. We went to Season 4 Top Chef Contestant Richard Blais’ restaurant. It was TV-come-true! I can’t tell you how many nights Arnold and I sat around drooling over the Top Chef dishes and tonight we got to taste some. We had foie gras and sweet tea ice cream and confit! And I have to tell you, they did NOT disappoint… and whoa… speaking of not disappointing, as I type this we’ve been watching the women’s gymnastics finals live! The anxiety has almost sent Arnold over the edge, he keeps poking me in excitement, but as I type.. Nastia Liukin has just won the Gymnastics Gold Medal and Shawn Johnson won the Silver! Jia-yo USA! I think Arnold might just feel a little bit prouder that next week he is going to become an American citizen… I mean obviously Anderson Cooper is excited about his impending citizenship ceremony.
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